At Veerasway, standard Indian classics like chicken tikka masala and mutter paneer are ready for their close-ups. Paneer, usually a dense, rubbery cheese, is made fresh here with soft airy curds. The mutter, or peas, are fresh farm-market fare, and redefine a dish that usually ends up as mushy gray greenish goop. Meanwhile, the chicken in the tikka masala is thick and succulent and there's not a bone in sight. Likewise, samosas feature a slow burning spice and buttery pastry crust to compete with the best in the city. Scallops are creamy, delicate and lush and wade in a pool of fruity coconut curry.

Like the food, the room is swanker than your average curry hut, outfitted with plush bench-style banquettes, hurricane lamps and a soothing pastel palate. The clientele appears right at home within the upscale decor, and wouldn't look out of place in a fashion or food magazine spread. For folks who might be intimidated to ford the back alleys of Devon Street, Veerasway offers a truly inviting upscale vibe.

Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant