After growing up on the home-style Peruvian dishes his family serves at Rinconcito Sudamericano, Dino Perez decided to branch out on his own with this flashier offering just down the street. Decidedly upscale, Rio's d'Sudamerica turns on the charm but stays true to its roots, turning out haute cuisine from Peru, Brazil and Argentina.

Seafood stars on the menu: Expertly-marinated ceviches, tiraditos and seafood soups start you out, with lobster, scallops and shrimp gracing many of the complex entrees ($14-$32). The brochetas Rio D'Janeiro, for example, mixes brochettes of tenderloin medallions with scallops, shrimp and roasted red pepper, served with black beans and rice. Guests rave about the aji de gallina, a shredded chicken breast bathed in creamy sauce of yellow pepper, walnut and cheese. Steak lovers can indulge in Argentinean-style churrasco, but vegetarians needn't stay home, as the kitchen will happily customize dishes to suit special requests. Exotic fruits make an appearance in many dishes, as well as in desserts and luscious smoothie-style drinks.

The muted dining room is walled with tasteful murals of South and Central American landscapes. Tables on the main floor seat small groups, with plush banquettes lining the walls for sofa seating; the second-floor mezzanine is open for weekend crowds, large tables and private parties. Modern salsa music plays softly overhead, allowing for easy conversation, and on warm nights the storefront doors are kept open to let in the breeze.

Centerstage Reviewer: Julia Steinberger