Same half-century-old sticky, tangy sauce with a vinegary bite, same piece of white bread served with each slab of ribs...but different locale. Venturing outside of the South Side, Leon's skirts the western outskirts of Lincoln Park, bringing the takeaway-only BBQ joint's tally to five outposts. But this time, there's a twist: seating for 25.

The same pair of brothers that Leon Finney trusted to run No. 4 in Brighton Park enlisted one of their own, Marco Ferrer, to expand the franchise. All the Finney staples are present: hardwood coals for a slow-cooked rotisserie taste, a two-day marinating process and top quality meat that both melts off the bone and holds a firm chew.

As far as ribs go, your best bet is a full slab ($14), enough to stuff two bellies. And if you're not into bones, the rib tips are just as tender; again, go with the larger portion ($8), which is only a about a buck more than the small. But if you're hankering for a different meat product, there are hot links, chicken (wings, legs and breasts) and even some seafood options (shrimp, catfish, and perch). And then of course there's always the "bucket," where you can mix and match any meat for parties as small as three or as large as 10 ($18-$45).

The original Leon's was born into a rough neighborhood and forced to install iron bars that separate the cooks from the crooks, giving hungry customers no choice but to endure the dreaded drive-back-home (or eat in a parked car). So be sure to put dining area that Ferrer has set-up to good use.

Centerstage Reviewer: Gavin Paul