Located in the heart of Andersonville, La Tache (which means "the spot") feels worlds away from the hustle of Clark Street, offering diners an upscale yet unpretentious atmosphere and a leisurely paced French meal. A tiny lounge just inside the door, complete with padded benches, deep purple pillows and ornate lamps, contrasts with the medium-size dining room, which is filled with dark wood tables, crisp white tablecloths and small art pieces hung in oversized, intricate frames.

Like the artwork, the menu is well balanced between bold flavors and delicate execution. The steak frites, with your choice of green peppercorn, bleu d'auverne, garlic anchovy butter or Bordelaise, is a definite favorite, with other entrees in the seasonal menu including braised rabbit, duck breast, salmon and beef tenderloin. With the half a dozen appetizers hovering around $10 and 10 entrees almost priced under $20, a table for two could easily dine and drink for less than $100.

Or, do like the locals do and show up for Neighborhood Appreciation Night on Mondays, when the $28 prix-fixe menu includes a three course dinner from the regular menu (no need to be from the 'hood). For more inexpensive French, check out the limited cafe menu, which features the likes of burgers (with bacon, charred onions, gruyere and truffle aioli) and French "nachos" (with spiced steak tartare, avocado relish and tortilla chips) for a cool $10 each.

Likewise, Sunday brunch is an equally satisfying affair, with La Tache's French takes on American favorites, such as the SLT (smoked salmon, lettuce, tomato and dill goat cheese on ciabbata) and the grilled skirt steak with eggs, potatoes and bearnaise. No matter your order or the meal, try to score one of the wicker and metal seats in La Tache's outdoor dining area, which is set off from the sidewalk by pretty iron gates and a mess of colorful flowers.

Centerstage Reviewer: Kate Rockwood