In terms of decor, this University Village Marketplace restaurant is fairly traditional. Wall-mounted box lanterns warm the dining room, as do strategically placed Asian trinkets, artwork and paper lanterns. This approach draws more attention to the space's crown jewels, the immaculate sushi bar and display kitchen at the back of the room.

It's almost as if the proprietors are daring you to witness the preparation of your food. A cheerful sushi chef dutifully assembles a range of maki, from California rolls to the more complicated Sensual Pleasure (spicy scallops and cucumber inside, spicy tuna outside). A second chef manages the viewable teppan grill, dramatically preparing (think Benihana) plates of hibachi- or teriyaki-style steak, chicken and fish for less adventurous diners. The service is consistently fast and friendly, and the waitresses are kind enough to identify your selections upon their arrival.

Kohan is most affordable at lunchtime, when bento box specials are available for about $12. But its high-quality fish is worth an occasional splurge, especially since it offers free karaoke on Friday and Saturday evenings starting at 10 p.m. Don't miss this opportunity to gorge on generous cuts of fish, sing your heart out and enjoy $2.50 Bud-family drinks.

Centerstage Reviewer: Jenny Seay