Campy nostalgia meets comfort food at Kitsch'n River North, the second location of this retro-themed brunch and dinner spot. Positioning itself as the more mature brother of the wacky Kitsch'n on Roscoe, the Chicago Avenue location is slightly more upscale and lighter on the knick-knacks and toys than its flashy kin, though the '70s-inspired interior's red formica tables, shag carpeting and lava lamps may not seem all that subtle for some. The restaurant has a hip-diner feel to it, perfect for enjoying the many unconventional brunch and dinner items on the menu. Notable brunch menu items include "the ultimate hangover breakfast," a mix of eggs, tortillas, spicy salsa and jalapeno jack cheese with bacon, and the "kitschn-sink" omelet, a three-egg omelet with a choice of any three ingredients.

Although the restaurant has an impressive brunch selection, lunch and dinner offer some interesting options as well. Jonny's Lunch Box, a half-sandwich, choice of soup or chili, fruit or chips and a twinkie or ding dong, comes appropriately served in a retro metal lunch box for a midday meal good enough to make Mom proud. The restaurant puts its own unique twist on many conventional dinner items like meat loaf, fried chicken and potpies, even offering a cult favorite, fried chicken and waffles. With a heavy emphasis on comfort food and sides like creamed spinach, macaroni and cheese and mashed potatoes, this is definitely not a spot for the diet-conscious.

Unlike the Roscoe Village location, Kitsch'n River North features a coffee bar, perfect for those looking for a quick grab-and-go cup of joe. It also has a lobby-area decked out with brightly colored couches, a TV and wi-fi access. In the spring, Kitsch'n opens up its beer garden where diners can sip on one of the restaurant's funky cocktails, like the tang-tini or the huggie bear cocktail. Drink specials are featured from Tuesday to Saturday.

Centerstage Reviewer: Ann McDonald