This Evanston eatery puts the shi shi into sushi. In a town bursting at the seams with quick-fix, cheap sushi spots, the sophisticated Kansaku found a niche of its own. Kansaku's upscale clientele mingles amidst a dark and modern interior, with sleek wooden tables, leather chairs and a red-lit sushi bar.

The a la carte sushi menu features all of the usual suspects, from yellowtail and eel to crab and tuna. For five pieces of sashimi, expect to pay anywhere from $7-$17, with most of the options falling around the $10 mark.

Traditional rolls cost anywhere from $3 for cucumber to $12 for the dragon roll. But seriously, a spot like this deserves a more adventurous approach to dining. Venture your way down the menu to the specialty and signature rolls, where you'll find innovative combinations like the yellowtail special (yellowtail, crab, cucumber, cilantro and jalapeno) and the King Kong (shrimp tempura, cream cheese, asparagus, green onion and avocado), which tack a few well-worth-it extra bucks onto your bill. Those who prefer their seafood cooked can check out the entree list, which includes teriyaki dishes, filet mignon and a variety of seafood platters for $17-$49 (for the steamed lobster).

In traditional sushi style, the bar stocks over 30 kinds of sake and some creative cocktails, including its signature saketini, a mixture of vodka, sake and fresh Asian fruit juice.

Centerstage Reviewer: Emily Browne