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in Lakeview or Irving Park on the Brown line

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Jim's Grill

View Map1429 W. Irving Park Rd., Chicago
Tel: (773) 525-4050
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Editorial Review of Jim's Grill

Barely the size of a postage stamp, this itty-bitty storefront is the sort of place you really have to be on the hunt for. Once found, the throwback-to-the-'70s vibe is quite welcoming, and the gregarious owner greets everyone with a bellowing, "Hi, I'm Joey, you want coffee?" In a bizarre twist, the wildly varied menu reads part American-diner grub, part Asian-specialty dishes. Service is achingly slow, but no matter, you can see for yourself that Joey (he doubles as the chef, the waiter, the busboy and the cashier) and his Mexican sous chef are working as hard as they can in the open kitchen. Everything is made to order, and you get the feeling that its 20 lunch-counter seats were to fill up, you'd be here 'til Christmas.

The kitchen adds a healthy spin on breakfast and doles out rolled oats with bee pollen, wheat germ and toast, as well as a wallet-numbing $8 special drink called The Fountain of Youth, a sweet mix of carrot juice, pineapple juice and aloe vera.

Regulars return for hulking bowls of Korean favorite bi-bim-bop (offered with beef or chicken) and you can literally taste your way around the Orient with dishes popping up from China, Thailand, Korea, Japan and the Philippines. The Sizzling Bangus (a pan-fried boneless milkfish) comes doused in a sweet sauce that's reminiscent of Japanese unagi, and the mighty fine Yang Chow fried rice comes peppered with tiny bits of salty chopped ham. Oddly enough, Mexico also makes a small appearance on the special board, with steak tacos proudly showing face.

Centerstage Reviewer: Misty Tosh

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Hours

10 a.m.-3 p.m. Monday-Saturday; closed Sunday

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