If you find yourself trolling around the deep Northwest Side, be sure to make a pit stop at this friendly Chinese mainstay. At almost all hours you'll find yourself keeping company with scores of police officers and tables full of Asian families.

We're stunned the noise level is so high, because a glance around reveals nothing but twirling chopsticks and hungry mouths mid-feed. Everyone's in Speedy Gonzalez mode, scarfing down giant platters of tender kung bao beef and Shark Fin soup.

Entrees easily feed two or three, so sharing is the best way to go. We were beyond impressed with the delicious crab Rangoon and the perfectly-made Mongolian beef, a not-too-spicy dish heavy with scallions (we weren't so wowed with the gummy vegetable fried rice, though).

Midday can be a zoo due to the bargain-basement lunch deals. Five bucks gets you a choice of entree (try the sweet and sour chicken), egg drop or hot and sour soup, a big greasy eggroll and a dollop of fried rice. If you're really hungry, order a handful of house special chicken wings (75 cents each); they're quite special, indeed.

Centerstage Reviewer: Misty Tosh