Vietnamese bun (vermicelli) is the perfect afternoon meal on a warm summer day. It's a light fix of soft rice noodles and some variety of pork, duck, beef or snail, decorated with fresh basil and cilantro. Sound exotic? Order an avocado or guanabana (a tart tropical fruit related to the custard apple) shake to wash it down and let the bamboo sprig and artificial fruit decor be your escort into a tropical paradise (minus the bugs).

Never mind that this is Chinatown; take advantage of the Vietnamese vibe at Hing Kee, where the whirring of fans, rather than stifling air conditioning, will keep you cool while you eat.

Centerstage Reviewer: Freda Moon