This is probably the only joint in the area that will smoke your catch, or theirs ($1.65 a pound), in an on-site hardwood smokehouse. Community is king at this now three-generation seafood shop, that since 1946 has been a Portage Park go-to point for fresh local fish, and later, when the market demanded, direct shipments from Boston.

Originally the space was like any supermarket's fish department, displaying fillet norms like salmon and trout amidst more exclusive items like orange roughy, sable and mussels (call for daily market prices). But over the years the family's added all sorts of specialty goods from sauces to champagne, a wall of free recipes aside cooking supplies and some oddities like old school candies and boxes of Irish oatmeal.

The biggest addition of all has been its transformation into a carry-out cafe, where one can purchase many of their fresh cuts fried in small or mass quantities. Score some daily-made New England clam chowder or seafood gumbo by the cup ($1.75) or bowl ($3.25) and even a hot fried chicken sandwich ($3). Same goes for all your seafood salad variations by the pound, and a some bar-type munchies like onion rings and cheese curds.

Centerstage Reviewer: Gavin Paul