When a restaurant's handle suggests a namesake, it's always disappointing to find out there's no one behind the curtain. Take Denny's, for example; and now, in consideration of this writer's still-fragile psyche…NEVER MENTION IT AGAIN. Fortunately for all of us, there is an authentic presence backing Gloria's Cafe, and that's really what makes this relaxed, sit-down Colombian eatery stand out.

Though vigilantly maintained by a small staff of family members, it's clear who's running the show: Co-owner Gloria Santiago has been brewing plans for the cafe since arriving here in the mid-80s. Inside the restaurant, Colombia's national colors proudly dominate the decor, but beyond the Crayola-red tablecloths and saturated yellow walls, Gloria recalls her roots with carefully prepared rustic, regional fare inspired by her hometown of Puerto Tejada.

True to Colombian cuisine, chicken rules the roost; we hear the $5.50 special, one-quarter chicken, rice, pinto beans and fries, will have us hooked. Other favorites include the very shareable lomo ancho al carbon y chimmichurri, a strip steak marinated in a special sauce and arepas de queso, cheese corn cakes. It's BYOB (with no corkage fee), but consider trying some of Gloria's offbeat, non-alcoholic options such as Avena, an oatmeal drink lightly flavored with cinnamon, and tree tomato smoothies.

As regulars gradually find their way to Gloria's, and the rapidly changing Logan Square neighborhood ushers in a younger crowd, patrons can expect an American-influenced breakfast menu and more options for vegetarians and vegans, like the spinach empanadas. A small children's menu also offers easy-pleasers like chicken nuggets and grilled cheese to satisfy undeveloped palates. For take-out, Gloria's sells various baked goods, and locals might recognize the pastries from popular Ukie Village stop, Bleeding Heart Bakery.

Centerstage Reviewer: Libby Ramer