Francophiles rejoice: a slice of Paris lies right off Elston Avenue. Cook Au Vin, a petite French grocery in Bucktown, offers a small selection of French goods like fine cheeses and preserves, not to mention the marvelous menu of sweet crepes, savory gallettes, sandwiches and the most decadent pan au chocolat (chocolate croissants) created outside the boundaries of Paris.
Chef Vincent Colombet, a native Parisian, says he opened up the shop in Chicago because "there was nothing French in the city." The name Cook au Vin, a play on the French dish coq au vin, originates from the maestro's family recipes, which all include some sort of alcohol. The sweet crepe batter is made with sugar and rum, for example. These crepes are no joke. Columbet whipped me up a buttery blueberry preserve crepe, perfectly folded onto fine china. It might have been the mouthwatering bites, or possibly the French music floating in the air while I ate at the wooden, candle-clad table, but the food evoked vivid memories of Parisian cafes. It's high on kitsch, but that's what makes it charming.
The sweet crepes cost $6.50 each and come with fillings like the classic Nutella and banana, butter and sugar, or preserves. Savory gallettes run $8 for three ingredients with choices like ham, smoked salmon, egg, tomatoes, roasted vegetables and numerous fromages (coute, brie, chevre). Extra ingredients cost $1.50 each.
Cook au Vin also offers cooking classes for those wanting to learn more from Columbet's repertoire. There are four types of classes: group/family ($70 per person), advanced ($95 per person), singles ($75 per person), couples ($150). Students learn to create at least two courses in each class.
If you get the urge to visit this French haven, don't resist the urge to grab a chocolate croissant for your walk home: the texture and taste are pure godliness. The first bite will release a shower of flakes as warm chocolate oozes onto your tongue. A note: while eating croissants, it's best not to think of how many sticks of butter were used to create such a delicacy. You must just eat, one sinful bite at a time, imagining you are walking down the Quai de Seine instead of Elston Avenue. Oh, and don't forget to thank Cook Au Vin for bringing a little taste of the City of Lights to Chitown.
Centerstage Reviewer: Katie Chelminski
