It's all about the bird at Chuy's. Located in a shadier part of Lawrence Avenue in Albany Park, its colorful sign adds a much-needed brightness to the neighborhood. Through the window, two grills full of half chickens sizzle and smoke; a lurid mural in the lobby and the brightly painted walls celebrate owner Jesse "Chuy" Arteaga's Mexican heritage.

The bilingual menu—painted above the walk-up counter—offers chicken any way you can slice it: From a half to a whole bird, pita sandwiches, chicken tenders for los ninos, salads, soups and even tamales. You can also order Chuy's chicks for your next event that needs catering.

Mildly spiced and perfectly cooked, the juicy meat complements just about any side dish. Choose from nine, like gloppy-good mac and cheese and buttery sweet corn, in two sizes ($2 small, $3 large). The half chicken meal deal with two sides costs $7.35, a deal considering the immense portions. After sucking the last bit of poultry off the bone, you can dig into a slice of Eli's cheesecake.

Eight, well-spaced tables sit throughout the tiled restaurant. A four-stool counter faces the lone television in the corner, where the regulars hang out and chow. Chuy keeps a clean house, welcomes kids and mans the pollo helm daily.

Centerstage Reviewer: Robert Duffer