How ironic is it that the restaurant with the best gnocchi in town is a place better known for pates than pastas, and doesn't even offer it as an entree? Still, one bite of Cafe Le Coq's delicate potato jewels and you may just swear off Italian trattorias all together. Buoyant and flaky, it's everything gnocchi should be but almost never is; a fact compounded by a lack of anything resembling marinara sauce on the menu. Cafe le Coq, Oak Park's answer to Loop-centered French dining, may revel in antique Parisian glory but remains on the culinary cutting edge.

Ornate sconces and honeycomb tile floors underscore a charmingly classical design, while pictures of the cafe's winged namesake brighten the atmosphere. Adding to the elegance are milky fleurs-de-lis that seem to pop from the wallpaper and embroidered pillows dotting the foyer. Entrees are unveiled with an artistic flair on par with any more formal French eatery, and one would have to look far and wide to find a friendlier, more knowledgeable wait staff.

The approachable wine list is divided by region, although French wines naturally assume the majority of the Carte. Standard deserts like raspberry sorbet and the lemon tart are sultry delights, while less common offerings such as the fallen chocolate souffle cake are a bit disappointing. But if all that isn't enough to entice you to trek out to the suburbs, almost nothing at Cafe le Coq is over $20! Somewhere, Julia Childs is smiling.

Centerstage Reviewer: Adam White