When opening an eatery in the dining Mecca of America, restaurateurs better be prepared to please the fussy taste buds of hungry Chicagoans while making sure that the experience will be like no other. Sushi restaurant after sushi restaurant has flooded the city, each claiming it has raised the bar when it comes to chopsticks-required meals. There may be enough fish in the sea, but before you can roll your eyes and say, "all spicy tunas taste the same," Blue Water Grill will have you convinced otherwise.

B.R. Guest Restaurants, a fixed character in the New York City dining scene, have stabbed fork in the former Spago location. Putting a twist on traditional Asian chow, executive chef Mark Chmielewski and sushi chef Hiroshi Takaishi jam-pack the menu with contemporary American fare flavored with Asian inspiration.

Special rolls include Mexican maki, Maine lobster with Asian basil, BBQ freshwater eel with cucumber, spicy tuna with a Thai chile dipping sauce and Three Eel Dragon roll ($2-$12). The raw bar serves up oysters, clams, mussels, crawfish, bay scallop ceviche and chilled jumbo shrimp, lobster and shellfish platters. But fish isn't all that's being caught in this sea. Land lubbers can dine on crispy skin free-range chicken served with French beans, buttery potato puree and garlic-red wine jus; dry aged New York strip dished up with smoked cheddar potato gratin and Chinese mustard-studded sherry reduction; and roasted rack of lamb complete with Swiss chard, hazelnut sweet potatoes and horseradish jus ($18-$46).

The steel blue interior with lush, modern furnishings makes this restaurant a place to stuff face and make the scene. The second floor houses Starfish Lounge, complete with private bar and dining room. Looking for a late night sushi menu? Blue Water Grill serves until 1 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.

Centerstage Reviewer: Janis Mabalay