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Tearing through Tapas: A Chicago Area Guide
Saturday Apr 05, 2003.
By Mara Sands
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Strolling through the world of tapas, we hit some reported hot spots -- including a suburban treasure, Wrigleyville alternative and Lincoln Square dive. Sitting or standing, inside or outside, in between classes and on the way home from work...Spaniards approach their tapas how they approach life - slowly, modestly and in relaxed fashion. Now whether you choose to wash them down like the Spaniards do - with a light beer, a hearty rioja or a glass of sherry, Centerstage wants to make sure you enjoy your tapas in the right place at the right time. For those who wish to take the tour, here's a guide to get started: Cafe Babareeba Folks head to Cafe Babareeba for the outdoor, relaxed experience, pitchers of sangria ($16.95) and dare we mention the Lettuce Entertain You points?!! It's smaller than Cafe Iberico and comes with a killer wait on weekends. The casual atmosphere and dependably good food make for an easy and fun dining experience. Try the sherry flights throughout the whole meal. Averaging around $4.95, the cold and hot tapas include some for the adventurous -- caracoles a la plancha (garlic escargot) and queso y membrillo, a typical Spanish fruit and cheese dessert ($3.95). Cafe Babareeba is our Urban Outdoor Tapas and Festive Sangria winner. Reservations recommended. Cafe Iberico Cafe Iberico takes the Gold Tapas Trophy for authentic, Spanish taste and lively, yet laidback Spanish feel. It offers excellent food for very reasonable prices, however it leans toward the conversationally challenged, especially in the smoking room on the left. With twice the number of tapas as its competitors, Cafe Iberico features a fabulous queso de cabra (goat cheese) and calamares and pulpo a la plancha (fried calamari and octopus) that won't disappoint (all around $5.50). They doubled their space within the past 5 years and still pack the house with a boisterous crowd of all ages. It's well worth the wait - 45 minutes is pretty normal, so mentally prepare yourself ahead of time. Reservations on weekends? Ha Ha! Twist: a tapas cafe Twist takes Wrigleyville visitors over the Mediterranean to neighboring Italy for a Mediterranean mix. In the former home of Pasta Palazzo, the owners take an affordable, "twisted" approach to tapas. Get suspicious when you don't see jamon serrano (cured ham) anywhere on the menu. That's like not seeing "salad" on an appetizer menu at an all around American Restaurant. Cold tapas range from $2.95 to $6.95. Hot are a bit more. The pincho de solomillo (beef tenderloin) was cooked a perfect medium rare served with horseradish sauce ($5.95). While not at all Spanish, the Jerk chicken drumettes on the special menu served with mango and pineapple chutney were fantastic ($4.95)! It was quite loud for such a small place, but funkier than a traditional Spanish locale (look up). The crowd is young 20's - young 30's and pretty female. For those that like to be on display, put your fanny in the cool little lounge area in the restaurant's front window. If you're not looking for a traditional, but rather an experiential tapas adventure, head to Twist. Emilio's Tapas While Emilio's fare was delicious and more elegant than that of Babareeba, it upgraded an experience that need not be upgraded. Its restaurant was more stuffy (a.k.a. more expensive) than the rest mentioned in this guide; their unbelievable main courses and specials dwarf their selection of tapas. If you do focus on the latter while at Emilio's, don't miss the champinones (sauteed mushrooms) and their famous patatas con alioli (garlic potato salad) for around $5.50 each. Traditional ceramic plates decorated the white painted brick and strong dark murals accompanied diners throughout the meal. Emilio's featured a classic tapas wooden bar where dozens of folks line up for a taste. Thank goodness, reservations were accepted. Meson Sabika Northfield's Meson Sabika mirrored Emilio's upscale approach to tapas. The former welcomes guests with its outdoor patio whose warm, festive atmosphere rivals that of urban Cafe Babareeba. Past Meson Sabika's tiny lights, hanging plants and colorful flower beds, however, is a panoramic view of romantic....suburban storefronts! Inside, you experience an increase of loud colors and noise. Regardless of your seating arrangement, try a sherry fino and your choice of their crab puff, shrimp & potato cake, scallops or flavorful stuffed peppers with a black bean sauce ($9.95). While the jamon serrano (cured ham) was less flavorful than it is in the old country, the portion was huge for $7.75 (catering to American tummies?). The featured Rioja was a delicious complement to the tasty pincho solomillo (beef tenderloin) with horseradish sour cream and caramelized onions ($5.75). The goat cheese "cazuelitas" was marvelous ($7.25) and the sangria served was refreshing sans the sweetness. Skip the paella, and save room for the crema catalana (vanilla custard). Attentive but not intrusive/stuffy waitstaff made solid recommendations. Reservations recommended. Tapas Cafe & Grill 773-348-3827 While similar to a tapas dive bar you'd find strolling the streets of a random, rural Spanish neighborhood, the ambiance disappointed. The banquet/veterans' hall look attracted a handful of locals who seem unphased by the 1970's wood paneling, empty tables, blaring soccer on TV and smoke in the air. They've got a number of traditional Spanish tortilla tapas (omelets), croquetas de pollo y jamon (chicken and ham puffs) and chorizo ardiente (flaming sausage!) for around $6.50 each. While prices were comparable to other establishments mentioned in this guide, the environment left much to be desired. So, you'll be coming for some of the 32 tapas, not the decor. We hope their seasonal outdoor patio enables guests to avoid the burning incense. The next are for you to explore and let Centerstage know what you think: Mar y Sol Sol y Nieve (part of the Emilio family of restaurants) Arco de Cuchilleros Tapas Barcelona La Tasca
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