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Eschewing Carbs?
Tuesday Mar 29, 2005.
By Misty Tosh
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Now that winter is bitterly creeping its way to a dramatic, more-random-bolts-of-sunshine-filled end, I've realized there are just a few scant weeks left to cram my bod full of carbs galore. Pretty soon, I'm gonna have nothing to hide behind and the pasty sheen of a body that's not seen the sun in months is going to have to be unleashed. Of course, this reeks of doing one thing and one thing only: Act quickly to devour as many carbs as I can and then hibernate under my coat 'til I'm close to passing out from heatstroke.
Though the windows were covered with signage so you couldn't see actually get a good assessment, I didn't expect the place to be so I'm-in-a-real-Polish-kitchen, for God's sake. Gritty plastic tablecloths and 100-year-old sticky placemats on awkwardly skewed dining room tables shared the open space with a long bar brimming with bona-fide Polish regulars. The place is dead silent, save for the banging and bustling happening in the brightly lit kitchen and the inquisitive toddler's rustling about the condiments on the bar. Who cares about looks though, with food like this? Barely drumming up a lick of English, the old-school Mrs. Doubtfire-style waitress claimed in her scattered tongue that every dish on the dish was "yes, betty goot," and with that, I was sold; no need to say another word, ma'am. With the smells rolling out of the kuchnia, you can just tell this place is the real deal. Boldly and not caring about the crash, I got a little hunger-rage wild and ordered the cheese blintzes, the potato and cheese pierogis and an order of potato pancakes. I mean, come on, they're all under $5, and why not just spread the love a little bit on Easter? Oh, the joy of freshly made, home-style food. Just the sheer delight at watching my girl totter over to the table, juggling all three plates of steaming hot food on her plump little forearms was enough to make my day. The pierogis (small pies), still dripping in melted butter, were thicker than I'd ever had, somehow chewier and slightly sour in the final swallow. Boiled first and then quickly pan-fried with a bit more butter, they were delicately sprinkled with minced onions (cooked to death and delish), and were the first to disappear. Crispy on the outside and creamy like a chopped version of mashed potatoes on the inside, the potato pancakes were basically two-bite crunchies and best when dunked in sour cream and finished off with a hit of tangy homemade applesauce. Best of all (because of the ol' sweet tooth factor, of course) were the cheese blintzes. Lightly fried and filled with thick, creamy cheese, they were perfectly folded triangles of crepe-like heaven. Doused with gobs of powdered sugar and served alongside even more sour cream and applesauce, you might as well skip the rest of the menu (as good as it is). On second thought, order it all. There's a few weeks still 'til the sun breaks out in full force. The Final Rave: Though it's continually on the menu, good luck catching the Beans Breton Style in-house. No matter when you come, they're always, "Ohhhh sorry, we just run out." Oh really there, nana? Ya just opened. KEEP IT GOING: Read It: Polish Museum of America
Drink It: My Place on Milwaukee
Eat It: Red Apple Get Crazy With It: Polish American Cultural Club Wanna be Queen for a day? Single women have a chance to win $500 bones and ride on a float (complete with worshipful court). All you need is a short essay and a current photo. Oh yah, you gotta be Polish, too. And, for those less fortunate in the looks department, if you can't beat 'em, join 'em; $35 gets you dinner and a dance at the pre-parade party.
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That said, I can think of no better place to enjoy a buttery pasta, potato and flour bounty than 