Denizens of the Viagra Triangle have a new way to perk things up, at least when it comes to their palates. Instead of dumbing things down for the masses like the cooks at many pan-Latino spots, Chef Richard Sandoval—noted for Asian-inflected fare and modern Mexican flair at restaurants like Zengo in Denver and Maya in New York City—kicks you right in the chilies at his new spot
Mexx Kitchen at the Whiskey. Mahi Mahi ceviche features a full-blown fire of grassy serrano chili, cut with a zingy tomato citrus; regional seafood delicacies like walleye get a spritz of guava and watermelon juices. Even seared rare ahi tuna, which has become a cliche item on haute menus, gets fired up with a chili-coriander crust and a hibiscus, blood-orange and habanero emulsion that simultaneously sears and soothes your tongue.
What do you wish you could change or pickle and preserve about the Chicago restaurant/food scene?
Chicago is a sophisticated food town with a passion for ethnic cuisine. I love the energy and vibrancy of the city.
What would your last meal be?
I'd be surrounded by friends and family, sharing dishes from my childhood like my grandmother's sopa de tortilla or the fresh clams with lime and spicy sauce I use to eat growing up in Acapulco. I will also have a lobster dish, like a lobster roll with chile chipotle rouille, accompanied with lots of tequila.
What Chicago chef would you be most willing to share a kitchen with?
Rick Bayless, I admire his commitment to Mexican food and to educate guests about food traditions that have been lost in the US.
What's the can't-miss dish at Mexx?
The seafood enchiladas made with scallops, shrimp and gouda cheese in a chile de arbol sauce. It is one of my favorites because most people don't associate enchiladas with seafood, but it is a very traditional ingredient in Mexico. I've put my own spin on the enchiladas by making them with a chile de arbol sauce and cooking them in our wood-burning oven.
What should we know about Mexx that we probably don't?
When I partnered with Randy and Scott Gerber to create Mexx, we all agreed that it would be great to have a bar/restaurant with the synergy of their great bars and nightlife and my modern flavors. I think that all guests will be somewhat skeptical when they first hear about Mexx, but I want everyone to know that even though the spot is casual, I was very serious about creating a great menu.
Richard Sandoval's recipe: Acapulco-Style Mahi Mahi Ceviche
Sandoval grew up in Acapulco, where his father owned a restaurant that served as an early training ground. This ceviche harks back to the fare of his youth.
Ingredients:
4 8-ounce filet of Mahi Mahi (skinned and cubed)
3 ounce Malibu Rum
half ounce Thai curry paste
2 ounce ketchup
1 ounce coconut milk (unsweetened)
1 ounce chili sauce
1 tablespoon chopped ginger (fine)
1 tablespoon chopped lemongrass (fine)
1 tablespoon chopped cilantro (fine)
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
Method:
Mix the rum, curry paste, ketchup, coconut milk and chili sauce in a medium bowl. Reserve. Add the olive oil into a heated saute pan, and saute ginger and lemongrass (two minutes). Add reserved ingredients and simmer five minutes to meld the flavors and reduce the rum. Remove from heat and cool. In a large bow, mix together curry paste mixture, mahi mahi and cilantro, making sure to coat fish evenly. Serve in individual bowls or cocktail glasses and enjoy.
Five for Frying is a weekly Food Feature that asks one chef five fun questions.
