This Polish family diner is a perfect specimen of old-world authenticity and satisfying home cooking. Paintings of Warsaw landmarks bedeck the turquoise walls, maroon booths line the perimeter and art deco tapestries back the rolling chairs. You'll probably hear Polish spoken exclusively by the other patrons.

The menu lives up to the decor with five pages of rich, filling dishes—handmade pierogi, blintzes, fried kishka, meatballs and potato pancakes. Traditionalists can indulge in a heaping plate of boiled beef roll with pickle and bacon or veal tongue with horseradish sauce. Herring and kibbeh (chopped beef served raw) are available only on the kids' menu, but keep turning the pages to reach the most extensive Polish beer list in town.

A basket of rye bread greets you on the table. Try to pace yourself on the starters, however; you'll want to save room for a few bites of tasty goulash so tender you'll have trouble keeping it on your fork. All dinners—most around $10—come with mashed beets, coleslaw, sour kraut and a hearty bowl of soup. And don't worry; the friendly wait staff is happy to bring you a box for the leftovers.

Centerstage Reviewer: Sharon Hoyer