With a pedigree that includes Lincoln Park bistro stalwart Cafe Bernard, chef Brian Moulton's Cotes du Rhone may have received the most buzz surrounding a restaurant opening since Alinea. And now that it serves a sizable crowd nightly, that buzz has escalated to beekeeper's colony proportions.

The interior sets a comfortable tone with lush draperies, a fireplace mantel, chocolate-color walls dotted with abstract artwork constructed from re-purposed window panes and the flicker of candlelight.

Serving up heartwarming fare to match its decor, Cotes' plates range from bistro standards like a hearty cassoulet studded with creamy white beans, silky duck confit and rich sausage to the light and flaky sauteed skate wing in butter, white wine sauce. This is no mere bistro, though: It offers luxuriant specials such as guinea fowl stuffed with sweetbreads and wild mushrooms wrapped in caul fat. Appetizers cost $4-$12, while entrees come in around $15-$25.

For the moment, Cotes du Rhone is still BYOB, but don't expect to bring your own for long.

Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant