When you think of Orly's, think big. The bi-level Hyde Park eatery is decorated with splashy bursts of peach and turquoise, murals dominate several walls and an oversize fish tank offers mid-meal distraction. But all that effervescence is nothing compared to the massive menu, which wanders from Cajun sandwiches to pasta to huge platters of tasty Mexican.

Skirt the 25-year-old restaurant's theme of excess and maintain laser focus on the south-of-the-border eats. Think: fajitas loaded with strips of chewy steak, peppers, onions and creamy guacamole; Santa Fe chicken stuffed with shrimp and crab and topped with a citrus-chipotle salsa; and grilled enchiladas loaded with fresh veggies (most entrees range $9-$15). Most patrons are college kids from the nearby university (a 25-percent discount sure helps lure them in).

Drinks and dessert round out the meal nicely: Drinks range from the prim and proper (housemade lemonade and pomegranate juice) to super-sweet indulgence (an Oreo Kahlua Kisser with creme de cacao, oreos and vanilla ice cream). Orly's bakers, meanwhile, start flexing their skills at four each morning, churning out towering six-layer cakes, cheesecakes, mammoth muffins and cookies.

Centerstage Reviewer: Kate Rockwood