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Chicago (Blue)

Just a few steps from fun.

Thursday Aug 18, 2005.     By Centerstage Chicago Staff

Lifestyle Feed

Exiting the L at Chicago is a bit confusing. You don't see the vibrant bustle you'd expect from a stop bearing the city's name. You don't see much, really. But beyond the well trafficked intersection are stretches of road that deserve to be just as well trafficked by pedestrians. New Mexico-style eateries, sensational sushi and gotta-love-'em coffee shops make Chicago Avenue worthy of its name.

Panhandler rating: Definitely not a hot spot for requests.

Safety rating: Quiet at night, so draw on those good ol' street smarts.

Where to chill
Blue Cactus
Blue Cactus claims to be a Mexican restaurant, but it doesn't claim to play by the rules. Its two chefs grew up near Acapulco and keep things close to home taste-wise. But when they come across an ingredient that works with a dish (but wouldn't traditionally be found in Mexico), they throw it in. Because if it tastes so good, who cares if it's not by the book?

The most succulent options on Blue Cactus' menu are probably those you've heard of (and tried) before. The mini chimichanga appetizer ($4.95), a pan-fried flour tortilla rolled with guacamole, onion, cilantro, beans and grilled flank steak or marinated chicken, comes out piping hot and oh-so tasty. For your main course, order the tequila drunken steak, a grilled flank steak marinated in tequila lime sauce and served with rice and beans for just $10.95. All of the food placed on your table is made fresh as you order, so the wait may be slightly longer than you'd hope; to satiate your empty tummy, all entrees come with soup or salad. Wash down your meal with the fruit juice of the day, which comes in flavors like watermelon, pineapple, cantaloupe and honeydew (or leave the juice for the kids and BYOB).

In-the-know spot
Flo
If you're unsure of what you're looking at when you walk into Flo, you're not alone. A collection of about 200 antique pencils immediately greets you on the right; a German hat mannequin occupies your left and a marvel of a restaurant dotted with folk art and classic photography sprawls out in front of you.

Though it's not obvious from the decor or the name, Flo is an authentic New Mexican restaurant. Owners Renee and Rodney Carswell both spent parts of their childhood in the southwestern state and have delighted Chicago with a simple cuisine dependent on red and green chilies. For brunch, your best bet is the huevos rancheros, a classic New Mexican red chili enchilada filled with cheddar cheese and onion, topped with two fried eggs and served with black beans and a warm tortilla ($5.95). The simple but oh-so-flavorful green chili chicken enchiladas ($7.95) will fill you for lunch with its three rolled corn tortillas stuffed with marinated chicken, Monterey Jack cheese and red onion, smothered in a roasted poblano sauce and served with rice and black beans. Serving sizes that Renee says in passing are "probably too big for your own good" are accompanied by prices that are kept as low as possible.

Late-night locale
Sushi X
The clubby vibe of Sushi X was created by two former Sushi Wabi chefs who wanted introduce a loungy sushi restaurant to the city's sashimi scene. Delivery (check the Web site for boundaries) and carry out constitute the majority of Sushi X's business, but the dining room, accented by candlelit tables, navy and silver walls, a black ceiling and music more commonly played in a nightclub, does get crowded around dinner time and later.

Sushi X's menu is as chic as its interior design, and it conveniently sides traditional sushi rolls (California, spicy tuna, Philly…) with options you won't find anywhere else. For $13, the godzilla, with tempura shrimp, spicy mayo, scallions, roe, cream cheese, tempura crumbs, avocado, eel sauce and wasabi mayo, is so enormous that you'll probably be full before you're halfway through. The yellow jacket, with hamachi (yellowtail), shitake, avocado, wasabi mayo and mango, has a bit of sweet tanginess you'll be hard-pressed to find elsewhere. All rolls can be made to order, so be your own chef and throw in an intriguing ingredient to your usual roll for a slightly unique taste.

Place to be seen solo
Atomix
This vegan-friendly wi-fi coffeeshop is an atomic force to be reckoned with. Foil stars dangle from the front windows and large-scale murals of space-age figures welcome customers in search for the goodness that only a neighborhood cafe can provide. Whether making a quick coffee selection or ordering from a full menu that includes vegan chili and vegan burgers, cold sandwiches and warm focaccia (made to order with or without meat for $5 to $6.50), the staff is as friendly as the atomic puppy painting poised at the entrance. Breakfast options start at the ever-affordable price of one dollar, including bagels, cereal and granola, washed down with lattes, mochas and teas. The enormous vegan muffins run you a less enormous $1.50 and range from carrot ginger to pumpkin chocolate.

The spacious and bright interior includes booths in the back and plenty of comfortable table seating in the sun-filled front. As an Atomix customer you'll feel taken care of, even adored, as evidenced by the Customer of the Month plaque. The plaque is written with Scrabble letters, a reminder that while you may have come to get work done, Atomix is equally as perfect for starting up a heated yet friendly word-crunching match.