Craving some swojska? How ‘bout some wiejska? Now that you think about it, you're fresh out of kisiel and pzyprawna, too, right? If so, head over to Andy's Deli, a clean but crowded little storefront deli and Eastern European import grocery. Open since 1918, Andy's holds its old-school own on the yuppified Division drag.

The main attraction here is the meat counter, where you'll find the famous Polish sausage that keeps the regulars coming back. It's one of Chicago's largest producers of authentic Polish sausage, retailing from its two neighborhood stores and wholesale warehouse that also sells sausage online to nationwide devotees. In addition to the spicy cased meats, you'll find bacon, ham, pork loin, pate, ribs, meat loaves and headcheese. The brisk and chatty Polish-speaking staff also serves up hot Polish homemade meals and comforting staples like chicken soup and borscht, which you can sit and savor on one of the handful of tables near the door.

The rest of the small space is stuffed with a variety of groceries, including a whole freezer full of different pierogies stuffed with items like cheese, meat and sauerkraut and mushroom. Cold desserts, oils, jams, canned foods and Euro condiments like curry ketchup line the shelves, and you'll find a wooden rack stocked with imported chocolate bars sporting intriguing pictures and ingredients.

Centerstage Reviewer: Julia Steinberger