Denizens of the Viagra Triangle have a new way to perk things up, at least when it comes to their palates. Instead of dumbing things down for the masses like the cooks at many pan-Latino spots, Chef Richard Sandoval—noted for Asian-inflected fare and modern Mexican flair at restaurants like Zengo in Denver and Maya in New York City—kicks you right in the chilies at this new spot.

Mahi Mahi ceviche features a full-blown fire of grassy serrano chili, cut with a zingy tomato citrus; regional seafood delicacies like walleye get a spritz of guava and watermelon juices. Even seared rare ahi tuna, which has become a cliche item on haute menus, gets fired up with a chili-coriander crust and a hibiscus, blood-orange and habanero emulsion that simultaneously sears and soothes your tongue.

The redesigned dining room includes dark rustic wood paneling with bordello red and regal gold accents, channeling both a roadside cantina and a bull ring. The string-lighted dioramas hanging over the banquettes feature a bevy of Mexican iconography and thrift-store style bric-a-brac, which adds a homey family feel to an otherwise lounge-y scenester-style hang. Appetizers cost from $5-$9, and entrees from $9-26.

Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant