The 900 block of Fulton has become a trendy little island in a sea of meat packing plants, thanks in part to Otom, the unpretentious little sister of Moto. This spot has an attractive concept: American comfort food disguised as haute cuisine. Artsy little portions of chicken pot pie and mac and cheese come to the table lovingly presented on big white plates in a modern dining room, with exposed brick, white tablecloths and vibrant orange chairs. The staff, as polished and knowledgeable as you would find at a hoity-toity establishment (except infinitely cheerier), is quick to point out chef Daryl Nash's thoughtful touches to humble dishes, like the salty/sweet interaction of brasiola (Italian beef or pork rolled with cheese, salt and parsley) and green apples in the arugula salad or how the impossibly dense shortcake was soaked in strawberry juice overnight.

The drink menu, on the other hand, is anything but proletariat; top-shelf liquors are infused with fresh squeezed juices to create light-hearted interpretations of old favorites. My friend ordered the Derby Day, a peach and vanilla-tinged version of the classic Mint Julep. I went with Otom's signature Help the Cure martini—Hendrick's gin kissed with cucumber and blackberry juice. It arrived at the table sparkling like a new prom dress with three plump, silver-leaf encrusted blackberries floating in the glass.

Most dishes—even the sea bass over greens—are under $20 and appetizers are under $10, so you can dress up and impress your date (dairy-eating vegetarian dates included) without having to skip your next eight meals. Reservations recommended.

Centerstage Reviewer: Sharon Hoyer