Landmark seems like a fitting addition to the Steppenwolf neighborhood: Its catwalk framed in metallics, cell phone booth, electric blue dining room, 30-foot ceilings and VIP room oozing hauteur all hint toward a flair for the dramatic.

Owners Kevin Boehm and Rob Katz tweaked the recipe that made neighboring BOKA so delicious: eclectic decor and food geared toward Chicago's thespian enthusiasts. In the lounge, diners discuss the latest productions over pizzas from the wood-burning oven. The duck sausage pizza with shiitake mushrooms and cilantro ($12) gets rave reviews.

Upstairs, more ambitious appetites get their night rolling with potato ravioli with brown butter, proscuitto di parma, cream and sage ($8). Roasted organic beets mix with marinated green beans, bib lettuce, picked cipollini onions, spiced pecans and goat cheese ($8). Grilled tournedos of beef warm Midwestern toes and are served with potato aligot and a Cabernet Sauvignon sauce ($28). Hearty appetites should steer toward the grilled double-cut pork chop with potato fennel gratin and apple aioli ($24).

Down home types aren't left out, even in this urbane atmosphere. Baby back ribs are served in half or full racks ($14 and $20, respectively). Free-range chicken ($16) and Texas-style beef brisket ($15) come sided by homemade chipotle-lime slaw, baked beans and jalapeno corn bread.

Wash down the the wood-fired apppetizers with the Peach Pit martini ($11), concocted with Stoli peach vodka, Malibu rum, a splash of mango puree topped with Moscato and, cleverly a peach pit. The budget conscious appreciate the "Fifty Under Fifty" wines by the glass.

Centerstage Reviewer: Robin Wright