A seedy little hole-in-the wall in Chicago's former red-light district on Wabash, George's Lounge is known for its filthiness and lack of pretension. The namesake has long since shuffled off the mortal coil, but George's hasn't changed much in its many decades of operation, apart from a new digital jukebox.

George's isn't a place to order a complicated drink. Think about beverages with two ingredients, tops, or you are likely to get a surly look from the bartender and a poorly made margarita or cosmo. You'll find some bottled beers like Sam Adams or Amstel Light, but the taps pour only Bud or Bud Light. It's cash only, but there is an ATM on the premises.

The crowd at George's is as variable as the Cubs' season performance, except perhaps on Monday nights during football season, when you're sure to come across a few regulars watching the game on the old and cloudy TVs. Sometimes the bar is packed with college students from nearby Columbia College; other times, it's full of conventioneers from the Hilton across the street looking for a late-night drink (the bar is open until 4 a.m.). Construction workers, cops and salesmen all mingle here, but some nights, you may have George's all to yourself.

Centerstage Reviewer: Beth Dugan