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The Perfect Pour

Dana finds she doesn't have to go far from home for a good meal and a tasty drink.
Wednesday Jun 11, 2008.     By Dana Kavan
Centerstage Chicago Nightlife City Guide Arts

Drink of the week: Il Perfecto Margarita

Where you can find it: Zia

The damage: $8.50.

Thousands of bars in Chicago, why this one? I often complain about how I love the location of my apartment but not the neighborhood. I live close to Lincoln Park Zoo, North Avenue Beach and plenty of open green space, but for someone who loves food as much as I do, it's a letdown to live on a block that lacks serious culinary chops. Still, I often find myself trudging across the street to a sushi spot where the fish tastes about as fresh as cat food, or hitting up the corner bar for a mediocre burger. When stomach-growling starvation sets in, consideration for my taste buds goes out the window and proximity usually prevails—but one restaurant in my 'hood might just save me from the pitfalls of my hunger-induced laziness.

I never thought to give Zia, a New Mexican restaurant (as in the state, not innovative Mexican fare), a shot until last week, when its spicy eats and top-notch margaritas left me reconsidering my living situation.

How it went down: With the first bite of Zia's smoky salsa, I knew my weak tongue wouldn't stand a chance against the menu's fiery dishes, unless I ordered a margarita to help tame the heat. Seven margaritas, including a peach or strawberry frozen variety, were on offer to highlight the small restaurant's diverse tequila selection. I went with the Il Perfecto, a mix of 1800 Tequila, Cointreau and Grand Marnier, intrigued by its inclusion of two fine triple secs.

It definitely had a stronger orange flavor than most margaritas I've tried, but the tartness of the fruit was balanced out by the zip of lime juice and the oaky notes of the 100-percent agave tequila. Its cloudy white color indicated that no pre-made mixes made it into the round, salted-rim glass; it was a simple blend and one that resulted in a refreshing drink, with a strong bite from the tequila at the end of each sip.

Would I want to become a regular? The only other experience I've had with New Mexican cuisine is the ridiculously tasty brunch at Flo in West Town, but as far as dinner entrees go, I had no idea what to expect at Zia. The menu read like a fairly typical shortlist of Mexican favorites—tacos, burritos, enchiladas and fajitas—with a few unfamiliar plates like sopaipillas, puffed pastry stuffed with rice and beans and drenched in a red or green chile sauce, which topped nearly every item. I opted for a combo platter; I could barely finish my enchilada because the red chile sauce packed too much heat for my liking, though it boasted layers of flavor. The tender steak in my soft-shelled taco really won me over; it had a pungent garlicky-citrus taste and nice char to it.

The environs were equally likeable, with vibrant paintings of women hanging on brick-red and kiwi-green walls and colorful scarves floating down from the ceiling. But the best part about my dinner had to be the journey home; with my belly full of tequila and tortillas, I only had to stumble a few steps to land on my couch, where I kicked myself for settling for so-so food all this time.

Dana Kavan scours the city for drink deals so good you'll offer to buy a round and creative libations that outshine your average on-the-rocks concoctions. Want to give Dana tips on where to rack up a bar tab? Share your finds before her next night out.

 

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